Magic Windows #26
by angeliska on October 5, 2012
I think it’s high time to resume making Magic Windows posts again as well, don’t you? Magic Windows is a peek into my world and adventures, via the tiny eye of the camera on my telephone. Earlier this week, I went on a little day trip with my darling Miss Amelia Foxtrot to procure two gorgeous new phonographs for her new business, The Austin Phonograph Company. Amelia DJs antique 78s on her vintage phonographs at events like weddings and the like – it’s really wonderful to see and hear. A dealer in this equipment was set up out at Marburger Farm, one of the many markets for antique dealers that pop up in the fields of rural Round Top, Texas twice a year. I always love to go comb for deals, and this time I did come away with bags full of treasures to fill my booth at Uncommon Objects. Even if you’re not an antique dealer, just going out to the country and taking in the country fair atmosphere, and the energy that suffuses these odd temporary junk villages is so much fun. Dealers in curiosities come from all over the country, and set up in barns and tents – many of them create elaborate and beautiful displays of their merchandise, and you can be guaranteed to see every kind of taxidermied animal, vintage clothing from every era, and all sorts of amazing and bizarre treasures. Of course, much of it is meant for serious collectors and designers with serious money, but you can find bargains if you know how to hunt. Even if you don’t buy a thing, it’s a lot of fun to wander and gape at marvelous things you often don’t see outside of showrooms or museums, especially in the middle of a pasture that normally only hosts cow-patties and old twisty oaks.
Check out Amelia’s account of our adventure, as well as more about her phonographic/photographic endeavors:
Uncouth Documents
Phonograph Portraits, or, how I climbed into a bell
MOIN VITE / PLUS VITE – this old French beauty actually resonates not through a speaker or a horn, but through a violin, which is ingeniously attached. I didn’t get a good picture of that, alas – so you’ll just have to take my word for it.
We got to hear the Angel’s Serenade, played on this fabulous contraption. It was heavenly.
Beastly angels in a very peculiar Sunday School mural.
This reminded me of one of my favorite lines from Rainer Maria Rilke’s Duino Elegies, The First Elegy:
“Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?
und gesetzt selbst, es nähme einer mich plötzlich ans Herz:
ich verginge von seinem stärkeren Dasein.
Denn das Schöne ist nichts als des Schrecklichen Anfang, den wir noch grade ertragen,
und wir bewundern es so, weil es gelassen verschmäht, uns zu zerstören.
Ein jeder Engel ist schrecklich.”
“Who, if I cried out, would hear me among the angels’ hierarchies?
and even if one of them pressed me suddenly against his heart:
I would be consumed in that overwhelming existence.
For beauty is nothing but the beginning of terror, which we are still just able to endure,
and we are so awed because it serenely disdains to annihilate us.
Every angel is terrifying.”
Aren’t these carousel faces sweet?
Animal festival masks from Sonnenberg, Germany – circa 1880. These are worn for Fasching, which Germany’s carnival season – their own answer to Mardi Gras. It starts on the 11th day of November at exactly 11minutes after 11am and ends at the stroke of midnight on Shroud Tuesday – often referred to as Fat Tuesday (the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday).
Crazy giant clown mug – made by Elsmore + Forster. E + F were manufacturers of earthenware at Tunstall – c.1853 – 71.
Bunny nipples! This jar is available for sale at my booth at Uncommon.
It was hard to give up, but I have a feeling someone out there needs it more than me.
Remember Me. Oh, I will – but I’m finally letting this one go. I’ve held on to this photo of a handsome man in a hat and glasses for so long now. Who did he give this to? Who was he beseeching to remember him? I was happy to pretend to be her for awhile, but it’s time to pass him on. Hopefully the person who’s meant to remember him will find him in the shop and take him home and gaze at him every night. I’m reading How Should a Person Be? by Sheila Heti right now, and yesterday this line jumped out at me:
“It has long been known to me that certain objects want you as much as you want them. These are the ones that become important, the objects you hold most dear. The others fade from your life entirely. You wanted them, but they did not want you in return.”
Who Needs Who
by angeliska on September 30, 2012
You could read every word I wrote
Follow the trail back to when I was young
You could read every word I wrote
In some attempt to understand what has begun, but it’s beyond me
– It’s a Secret
I listened to Dark Dark Dark’s new album for the first time on the subway in New York, last month. Well, actually – that’s a lie. Last summer, a friend let me have a secret listen on headphones to some of the unrecorded tracks. I sat on my bed and played them over and over. I didn’t yet know exactly how, but I knew those songs would be important to me – I knew somehow that I would need them, later. It was painful handing them over, knowing I wouldn’t get to hear them again for at least another year. I had been hooked on their second album Wild Go all that year, and listened to it and the Bright Bright Bright EP constantly. I pre-ordered Who Needs Who as soon as I got the notification from Supply and Demand, and waited patiently for the day I’d get to sit with those songs again. It couldn’t have come at a more perfect time, really. Certain albums have a way of doing that sometimes – becoming constant companions through hardships, heartbreaks, or happier times. I sat on the train that afternoon, my shoulders rocking against the strangers jammed in next to me, and let the music unfurl into my ears. I knew immediately that these ten songs would be a succor, a balm to my brokenness, a thumb to suck in the dark. Every lyric, every note fit in, felt like poignant illustrators of exactly where my heart has been. Though I know that these songs were written from their own place of loss and love, it’s easy to feel like they could be written for mine. But that’s the magic of good songwriting, of a perfect break-up album, really – and as far as break-up albums go, this one is as honest and kind as it gets. There’s not a lot of bitterness or recrimination here – no real anger at what went down, but instead, a wistfulness, some regret, and a lot of longing. It’s not really a sad album, though – it’s just true, and the simple beauty of it makes my breath catch in my chest at times. It’s raw and forlorn and solemn and then it does a little dance despite it all. It’s this that I am most grateful for – to hear songs that speak to my sore and battered heart, but that don’t pander to its bruises, don’t let it be a victim. Better to have loved and lost, and even better to do so, and still find a way to dance – even if it’s just a waltz with a rag mop or a slow tap dance in an empty room. I sat on the train and listened to those songs, tears streaming down my face, lost in the music. Walter’s trumpet soars over the piano keys, over these aching lyrics, transcendent. Marshall’s banjo thrums in my belly, his clarinet curls around my wrist like smoke, tugging at me. The swaying of the train shakes my body in time with the drumbeat. Gruff old men seemed more tender somehow, harried mothers with strollers shoving past, their children’s faces suffused with wonder or petulance – all the sweaty, frustrated commuters, underground in the city in late August – they all seemed to be floating underwater, suddenly serene, all unknowingly part of my secret heartbreak world.
This song is my heart stripped bare, naked and shivering in a room that we used to share:
Tell Me
I want to live in the time when you cherished me
Oh to go back to the place when your hands moved over me
Nona’s voice is one of my favorite voices. It is pure and real, strong and unaffected. There is so much honesty there – and a willingness to be vulnerable that I admire and respect. I cry nearly every time I listen to Who Needs Who – which is all the time, lately. If I have a song playing in my head at any time for the last few weeks, it can usually be guaranteed that it’s one of these ten. Even more special is knowing that this music was made by people I care enormously about, some dear friends. It’s always amazing to watch a band’s evolution over the years, but even more so when you know them, when you get to see them consistently here and there. They are still as scrappy and lovable as when you might expect to see them busking on a street corner or playing by the light of a burning trash barrel in an abandoned warehouse, but now they get to tour Europe, and caress and destroy people’s hearts all over the place. I love that so much.
Who Needs Who
All I have: the memory of trust
I try to keep it close
And all I have: the memory of trust
I swallow it whole
And from the mouth of you
A constant coo:
Who needs who?
This title track has been one of the songs that simultaneously soothes and taunts me – a question that I can’t answer. When I try, the answer seems to change daily, to reverse itself, always transforming. It reminds me of something someone said to me recently – I turn it over and over like a smooth stone under my tongue. I’ve been reconsidering the idea of need, the thought the we truly need anything or anyone. The pressure that word puts on us. Needs, wants, desires. Also: before I read the lyric sheet, I had interpreted “and from the mouth of you – a constant coo” as “a constant coup”, – an unexpected blow or strike. Imagine my surprise at the far gentler revelation. Or is it, really?
“Who needs you? With no one sayin’ I do, I do…”
– Without You
Oh all all of the words you said
They flutter around me like leaves in the wind
And oh all all of the words we shared
Are fireflies lighting the night for me
And oh all all of the times we had
I keep them with all my best memories
“Tell Me” is the first single from “Who Needs Who”, the new album from Dark Dark Dark, released October 2nd in the US on Supply & Demand/Revolver, October 1st in the UK/EU on Melodic.
For more info and to order, go to: http://brightbrightbright.com
If you’re not convinced yet, you can stream Who Needs Who over at Stereogum
Track by Track: Nona Marie Invie talks about the stories and inspiration behind each of the tracks on Who Needs Who.
Also in constant rotation for me lately, a side project of Nona’s: Anonymous Choir Sings Leonard Cohen
Photograph by Tod Seelie
Who Needs Who is officially released on October 2nd in the US on Supply & Demand/Revolver, October 1st in the UK/EU on Melodic. The US tour begins the day after – please go see them play, wherever you are. I’ll be at the show on the 19th in Houston, because I’ve got a wedding there on the 20th. Don’t miss them when they play your town! They are marvelous live, and also total sweethearts that you will fall in love with.
DARK DARK DARK FALL 2012 TOUR DATES
Wednesday, October 3rd – Minneapolis, MN – Cedar Cultural Center
Saturday, October 6th – Chicago, IL – Schubas
Monday, October 8th – Hudson, NY – Helsinki Hudson
Tuesday, October 9th – Boston, MA – Great Scott
Wednesday, October 10th – Providence, RI – The Met
Thursday, October 11th – Northampton, MA – Iron Horse
Friday, October 12th – Brooklyn, NY – The Knitting Factory
Saturday, October 13th – New York, NY – Le Poisson Rouge
Sunday, October 14th – Baltimore, MD – Metro Gallery
Monday, October 15th – Washington, DC – DC9
Tuesday, October 16th – Durham, NC – The Pinhook
Wednesday, October 17th – Atlanta, GA – The 529
Thursday, October 18th – New Orleans, LA – Cafe Istanbul
Friday, October 19th – Houston, TX – Fitzgerald’s
Saturday, October 20th – Austin, TX – Holy Mountain
Sunday, October 21st – Denton, TX – Dan’s Silverleaf
Wednesday, October 24th – Santa Fe, NM – Sol Santa Fe
Friday, October 26th – Denver, CO – Hi-Dive
Saturday, October 27th – Salt Lake City, UT – Kilby Court
Sunday, October 28th – Boise, ID – Visual Arts Collective
Monday, October 29th – Seattle, WA – The Crocodile Cafe
Tuesday, October 30th – Portland, OR – Wonder Ballroom
Thursday, November 1st – Santa Rosa, CA – Arlene Francis Center
Friday, November 2nd – Oakland, CA – The New Parish
Saturday, November 3rd – San Francisco, CA – Bottom Of The Hill
Monday, November 5th – Los Angeles, CA – The Echoplex
Tuesday, November 6th – San Diego, CA – Luce Loft
More bits about Dark Dark Dark from Gazette posts of yore:
☛ SAKURA HONEY
☛ PEARBLOSSOM HONEY
☛ FRIENDLY PEOPLE HONEY
☛ EXQUISITE CORPSE – CINCO DE MAYO
Autumn Heralds
by angeliska on September 24, 2012
The Oxblood Lilies are telling me it’s fall now – the autumnal equinox has crossed over us with candles lit, and the scent of burning cinnamon bark. I mean to have a Mabon feast for the Witches’ Thanksgiving, but it will have to wait until I am more sorted out, and until it’s cool enough here for a proper bonfire. This year I sit on the porch with my mug in the mornings and talk to my animals. It is strange to mark this turning on my own, to have no stalwart sweetheart to remark upon the red blooms to. Very strange indeed. Everything is different now, everything is irrevocably changed, but still the lilies spring up like clockwork in the fall. I keep having dreams and visions of blood and massacre, of creatures I love torn apart, red splashes on the earth, pieces of them strewn among the scarlet lilies. Terrible dreams. I am seeking to change where my mind goes – to realign my neural pathways and train my thoughts to follow better roads. It’s hard work. I’m glad this long, brutal summer is fading, but I fear another icy winter in this drafty old house. I’m stretching my arms up to the sky to beseech the weather wraiths for a long, golden autumn – full of fruit and all kinds of abundance.
My friend Del sent this to me recently:
“The first of the day lilies in my yard came up last night, and bloomed this morning. They are called ox-blood lilies. The appear overnight, as if by magic. They are not the ethereal white rain lilies I love, but full lipped and thick hipped blooms. A brown, August empty barren yard becomes rich with red blossom. They cannot be purchased in any store. They come up that first day of fall, when the light changes so subtly that most never notice. It means; comes cool weather; here comes sleep for the tepid green world, and grey wind sends us all indoors to keep warm and make love. I love this red magic plant surprise. I always send pictures of them to good hearts, for a good year to come, and a good year spent.”
Rhodophiala bifida are heirloom bulbs, also called Hurricane Lilies, School House Lilies, or Fall Amaryllis can only be purchased through The Southern Bulb Company:
“Sometimes called the School House lily, these hardy plants frequently make appearances in older neighborhoods of Central Texas. Oxblood lily flower bulbs bloom with a vivid display of several entrancing flowers in the Fall. They are historic and, until now, are almost impossible to buy.”
O, Autumn heralds.
Crimson harbingers of cooler weather.
The garden is bloody with them.
Shrimp Scampi loves them too.
Split pomegranate, silver. It fell too soon from the tree. It’s soon harvest-time, though.
I’ve found poetry to be a great consolation and comfort again – not in the maudlin, clutching way I hunted pertinent phrases and passages down in my youth, but almost as prayers, paeans, mantras. Like this one:
The time will come
when,
with elation
you will greet yourself arriving
at your own door, in your own mirror
and each will smile at the other’s welcome,
and say, sit here. Eat.
You will love again the stranger who was your self.
Give wine. Give bread.
Give back your heart
to itself,
to the stranger who has loved you
all your life, whom you ignored
for another,
who knows you by heart.
Take down the love letters from the bookshelf,
the photographs, the desperate notes,
peel your own image from the mirror.
Sit. Feast on your life.
– Love After Love
Derek Walcott
(thanks to Coyopa for this!)
Beauty berry – goblin fruit. They look so delicious, but I think they are not for humans to feast on, alas.
Sisters, I prescribe you a daily reading of this poem in Spanish and English to yourself as you stand naked before a mirror.
I have also prescribed this same remedy to myself.
I have named you queen.
There are taller than you, taller.
There are purer than you, purer.
There are lovelier than you, lovelier.
But you are the queen.
When you go through the streets
No one recognizes you.
No one sees your crystal crown, no one looks
At the carpet of red gold
That you tread as you pass,
The nonexistent carpet.
And when you appear
All the rivers sound
In my body, bells
Shake the sky,
And a hymn fills the world.
Only you and I,
Only you and I, my love,
Listen to me.
————————————
Yo te he nombrado reina.
Hay más altas que tú, más altas.
Hay más puras que tú, más puras.
Hay más bellas que tú, hay más bellas.
Pero tú eres la reina.
Cuando vas por las calles
nadie te reconoce.
Nadie ve tu corona de cristal,
nadie mira
la alfombra de oro rojo
que pisas donde pasas,
la alfombra que no existe.
Y cuando asomas
suenan todos los ríos
en mi cuerpo,
sacuden
el cielo las campanas,
y un himno llena el mundo.
Sólo tú y yo,
sólo tú y yo,
amor mío,
lo escuchamos.
– La Reina / The Queen
by Pablo Neruda
The rain lilies have been blooming constantly – a good omen for this autumn. They make me feel as if, contrary to how things feel right now, that I could find a way to believe in or hope for that last line to be true. I really do want to think so.
How should I not be glad to contemplate
the clouds clearing beyond the dormer window
and a high tide reflected on the ceiling?
There will be dying, there will be dying,
but there is no need to go into that.
The poems flow from the hand unbidden
and the hidden source is the watchful heart.
The sun rises in spite of everything
and the far cities are beautiful and bright.
I lie here in a riot of sunlight
watching the day break and the clouds flying.
Everything is going to be all right.
Everything is Going to Be All Right
– Derek Mahon
Here’s are some songs by Emmanuelle Parrenin that tell me the same:
Ce Matin À Frèmontel (Maison Rose, 1977)
Thibault Et L’arbre D’or
More from days of yore:
FOLDEROL, FALL AND ALL
EQUINOX SONG
Sea Nettle Honey
by angeliska on September 19, 2012
I had the strange realization that it’s been a little over a year now since I did a HONEY post – so long, in fact, that any new readers may not even know what I’m on about here… So, yes – like a little bee, I flit through the arbor of the internets, collecting tidbits of tantalizing information, and the collected pollen of my trawlings end up being sifted into loosely themed posts here. Images, articles, music and snippets of words, that together adhere to a certain tone, and are collated by interest rather than chronology. My sense of time is variable and fluid at best, and thus news items very well be old hat or out-of-date, but intriguing all the same. HONEY posts serve as more than an aggregation of random links, or just my own elaborate filing system for links and bee-log bits that I want to remember, but also – hopefully – as an aid in the pollination of your own curiosity. I try to always accredit everything where it’s due, except in cases where provenance has proven undeterminable. If you recognize a mysterious photograph, and know where it came from, I am always grateful to be informed!
A beautiful still from Karen Elson’s video THE TRUTH IS IN THE DIRT
“Love, love, the clouds went up to the tower of the sky like triumphant washerwomen,.. and it all glowed in blue, all like a single star, the sea, the ship, the day were all exiled together.
Come see the cherries of the water in the weather, the round key to the universe, which is so quick: come touch the fire of this momentary blue, before its petals wither. There’s nothing here but light, quantities,clusters, space opened by the graces of the wind till it gives up the final secret of the foam
Among so many blues-heavenly blues, sunken blues – our eyes are a little confused: our eyes are a little confused: they can hardly divine the powers of the air, the keys to the secrets in the sea.”
– Pablo Neruda
sea horses and ghost house.
☾ I’ve been spending some time meditating on this piece by the amazing Michelle Mirsky – she is one of the bravest people I’ve had the honor of meeting, and I have a feeling I’ll be learning a lot from her this year. Here’s an excerpt:
“I found, one day in my virtual travels, the story of a woman buried for 2500 years high in the frozen mountains of Siberia. Near the end of the 20th Century, archaeologists uncovered her mummified remains. She was 25 years old when she died and heavily tattooed with inks of black and red in the shape of animals and mystical symbols. She’d been buried with a retinue of horses and warrior guards in full regalia. It’s unclear if she was of the noble class—an actual princess—or if she might have been an especially important storyteller: a woman of magic. The idea that those two stations might be of interchangeable importance seemed right to me, and it resonated. I’m neither royal nor magic, but I am a storyteller, tattooed and fierce. I don’t know yet what they’ll say about me, only that I won’t know how it ends. And I know the story won’t be written on my Facebook wall.”
– The Vessel
Girl on the strand
Slim crescent, my sigil: a silver scythe.
Zola Jesus – “Vessel” taken from ‘Conatus’ on Souterrain Transmissions. Directed by Jacqueline Castel.
Snail heart.
Damien Hirst – Requiem, White Roses, and Butterflies
Thinking about what home is. Being home, being your own home. Home is where my heart is. I am home, I am my own home.
☾ Let’s go here soon: Margate Shell Grotto
“The story goes that in 1835 Mr James Newlove lowered his young son Joshua into a hole in the ground that had appeared during the digging of a duck pond. Joshua emerged describing tunnels covered with shells. He had discovered the Shell Grotto, its walls decorated with strange symbols mosaiced in millions of shells. Is it an ancient pagan temple? A meeting place for some secret cult? Nobody can explain who built this amazing place, or why, but since its accidental discovery visitors from all over the world have been intrigued by the beautiful mosaic and the unsolved mystery.”
☾ Left to a Room – this piece by Shamala Gallagher has also been haunting me of late. So good, so true.
“It is hard to sit alone in a room and write poetry because it is an evocation of the more literal scenario: your self in the room with you, where everything she does to hide her terror from the world is transparent and gleaming and failed.
In poetry you are always in the bedroom with yourself at dusk, where you cannot bear to look and you cannot bear to turn away.
It gets so the only time of day you can enjoy is dusk, and it is best when it is long summer dusk and the windows are smeared with rain and green. I cannot bear to sit in a room with myself; I am always longing for another. In the moment of poetry the other you long for is yourself, for all her particulars which are ravenously embarrassing. It is the kind of embarrassment that would break over you as a child walking home in the dark outside a room with lit windows.”
This frog is sitting alone, on a bench, like a person. I’ve watched this video over and over. I never get tired of wondering what that frog’s thinking.
☾ This fantastic article by Nadya Lev over at Coilhouse has been sparking lots of great dialogue about being a person of color in a notoriously pallid subculture: “I am so goth, I was born black.” –
Photograph by Dean Morley
☾ Butterflies boast ultrablack wings – Insects use optical trick to get the blackest black out of dark pigments.
☾ TAXIDERMIED INSECTS SO BEAUTIFUL
IT’S DISGUSTING – By Marina Galperina
I fell in love with Claire Morgan’s work awhile back – especially her crow falling through strawberries piece. She’s brilliant.
☾ African fruit ‘brightest’ thing in nature but does not use pigment to create its extraordinary colour – If I was a fruit, I would most definitely be a marble-berry (Pollia condensata).
☾ The Secret Life of a Society Maven
This piece came out a while back, but I find myself thinking of it often. A fascinating life.
☾ Acid and Gold: The Modern Alchemy of Artificial Gemstones
☾ I can tell I’m going to have spend some time with this one, too – really wonderful writing from Coyopa – Nettle-Eater
“‘I thought you were a wise man,’ she said. I had been practising for wisdom all my life, in secret moments of grandeur inside my skull, and knew less of it now than I had ever. I told her she was elf-shot and that there were skeletons where there should have been only gold light. I gave her the name of a plant that might help. If wisdom has something of saying the right thing at the right time, I am more foolish than the robin, the blackbird or the shrike. She raised her eyebrow at the word ‘elf’ and laughed at ‘skeletons.’ As she left, I told the skeletons to leave her. They shrugged and laughed and tapped cigar-ash on the riverbank. Whether they left or not, I’ll not ever know. I suspect she was one who will be elf-shot again – she had that way of misery about her, sadness stalking her and never faced fully in the underworld of learning.”
☾ Echo Lake – Wild Peace
Drowned in Sound is streaming the new album from Echo Lake, and has a track by track guide to the album by the band. Beautiful dreaminess. A perfect soundtrack for early fall.
Travel Light
by angeliska on September 3, 2012
As someone that has traveled extensively from a fairly young age, I find it a bit absurd that I have long struggled with the art of proper packing. I learned the hard way, pretty early on, that whatever I took with me on a trip was what I’d have to lug around myself, and that I have a terrible tendency to also find (and acquire) all sorts of treasures on my travels. You’d think that trekking around Asia (Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand and Bali) as a teenager, and touring Europe every summer for a few years with my octogenarian grandfather would have taught me these lessons. Alas, no. Instead, there were frantic searches for baggage carts whilst wrestling with my Grampa’s portable wheelchair and trying to not look like such obvious pickpocket bait in crowded Italian train-stations. There was the time I took a three piece set of blue and white vintage Samsonite luggage to Amsterdam, only to realize that there was no way for me to carry it all myself up the stairs at Centraal Station amidst swarms of keen-eyed junkies, nor did that surplus of baggage carry anything at all practical or warm for a freezing spring in the Netherlands. I think I had packed mostly velvet dresses, elaborate corsetry, art supplies and books. I had just graduated from high school, so I suppose I get a pass for being ridiculous. I always overpack (often grotesquely), and generally wear very little of what I actually bring. I never end up having much time to make art, write long letters, or read the stack of books I insist on filling my bags with. Someone once told me, “The less you bring, the happier you’ll be – and after all, if you forget something, it just gives you an excuse to go shopping!” These words are truth. I’ve tried to make a rule of not taking anything that needs mending, is uncomfortable, or anything I haven’t worn in a long time. I have a block about packing correctly for the temperatures of wherever I’m going, though – just assuming that if it’s blazing hot in Austin or New Orleans, it couldn’t possibly be otherwise anywhere else. My brain doesn’t understand cold weather very well, and I’ve only recently managed to figure out proper layering. Summer means hot weather, period – at least in my mind, it does. Imagine my shock at finessing myself shivering while I hunted for sweaters and scarves in Denmark in July!
As I’ve always aspired to live the life of a jet-setting world traveler, mastering pro-packing is a skill I’ve been trying to improve at for years – and though I definitely have made enormous progress with my technique, I feel that during this recent month long cross-country adventure, I really managed to get closer to nailing it. One of the obvious first steps is finding good luggage. I never bothered to do this, ever, really – because although I have good taste, I’ve always generally been rather poor. Any good luggage out there that I’d actually want is usually vastly out of my price range, so I usually settle for some Chinatown dreck, or other people’s hand-me-downs. My main issue with spending money on anything that I intend to have and use for a long time is that I want some assurance of the quality, the work that went into it, and the spirit behind it. That’s why before I left on my journey, I decided to buy a full set of my friend Christopher Franks’ beautiful handmade bags.
There’s something very powerful and amazing about using something everyday that was made by someone you know and care about. I met Chris right after I moved back to Austin from New Orleans, post-Katrina. I was pretty broken and raw, and feeling like a stranger in my own hometown. I happened fortuitously upon the inception of what would become one of Austin’s longest running and most beloved monthly dance parties, The Second Sunday Sock-Hop, back when it used to be held at the Longbranch Inn. They’d shake baby powder on the floor, and people really would kick off their shoes and slip and slide around to the old soul records. I met Chris mid-boogie, finding myself suddenly shaking a tail-feather with this skinny elfin guy with a giant beard and even bigger smile. Normally, I’m not big on dancing with people, especially fellows to whom I am not yet acquainted – but I had so much fun getting’ down with this man that looked like a human dandelion! When the song died down, he introduced himself, and was super friendly and had awesome energy. From that night on, I would always run into Chris on the dance-floor, or selling his leather and cactus jewelry on the street, and whenever I did – he’d always put a smile on my face. He truly is one of those magic people who light up a room when they walk in, silly as that may sound. He is very genuine, and genuinely happy. I sort of regard him as a touchstone – someone I could count on being a source of positive, unabashed good vibes whenever I found myself adrift in an unfamiliar sea of disaffected, too-cool-for-school hipsters at a party or show. It’s hard to explain, but I always feel a sense of relief, kind of an instant relaxing in my chest around Mr. Franks – which I think calls back to a time when I felt super awkward and dislocated after quitting smoking (hello, return of adolescent social anxiety!) and finding Austin very transformed by money and youth culture.
My travel bag essentials: backpack, hip-pouch & purse all handmade by Austin’s own Chris Franks of X-ray Love.
I discovered that Chris was making bags when I was immediately drawn to an extremely alluring rucksack calling down to me from a high shelf at Charm School Vintage. I think I carried that sucker around for half an hour, hugging it to my chest and trying to figure out how I could budget in making it mine. A few months later, I saw one of the hip pouches from the same line, (being modeled on the maker’s own narrow frame) and knew I could wait no longer! I had to have all three bags to take on my adventures: the backpack for my laptop and books, the purse for everyday use, and the hip-pouch for shows, parties and Dollywood! It just wasn’t even a question after I really thought about it – these are practical items that I knew I’d get a ton of use out of, made by the hands of someone I respect and adore, and made damn well. All X-ray Love bags come with a lifetime warranty, which I think is fantastic, because I tend to be pretty rough on my stuff! I was excited to put these babies to the test during a month of cross- country travel and see how we got along… To sum it up: I couldn’t be happier. The print seems to go with anything, and I feel happy carrying them no matter how fancy or slummy the occasion. This has always been an issue for me when buying purses: I just want a solid, well-made attractive bag that suits me no matter where I end up. The ink-stained canvas army bags I used to carry were slightly embarrassing in a nice restaurant, and some expensive leather designer purse covered in dangling tassels and what-not just felt idiotic when hanging out at an abandoned train-yard or dive bar. I’m not paying hundreds (or ugh, thousands!) or dollars for something that could end up getting set down in a puddle of beer, or that flashes a neon “ROB ME” sign like a beacon in the night. I tend to have exploding pens, weird pockets of leftovers folded in tin-foil (yes, I’m that lady), and handfuls of flowers, seeds, leaves and who knows what else stuffed into my purse at any given time. It’s gotta be utilitarian enough to handle my nonsense, but attractive enough to look right with whatever nonsense I’m wearing. I have to admit – I was slightly apprehensive about the smaller size of the purse. It’s not tiny by any means, but given that I tend to haul around a bottomless abyss that would put Mary Poppins to shame, I wondered if I could really cram everything I might need into such a comparatively petite package. I’d always played around with the idea of forcing myself to carry a smaller bag, and thus limiting the amount of random stuff I tote it around all day. The reality is: if I can’t fit it into this purse, I probably don’t really need it. Wallet, keys, a compact, a pen, a little journal, my phone, and only an essential selection of cosmetics. This is the least stuff I’ve ever carried with me on a daily basis, and I have to admit it’s very liberating. I used to joke that if I didn’t carry a giant purse as an anchor, that I’d probably just float off into the stratosphere. But I’m finding myself more grounded than that lately, and I don’t need a bunch of useless weight to keep my feet planted firmly on the earth.
Mr. Franks is all about the beautiful details, and about not only developing an independent and hands-on approach to every aspect of creation and production, but also generously sharing information about his techniques and process, including his method for making waxed canvas – How To Wax Canvas. His story about that process is pretty fantastic:
“I had about two yards of brown waxed canvas that I found at the Blue Hanger in Austin. It’s glorious fabric. If you’ve never felt it, write me and I’ll send you a swatch. This is the fabric that a cowboy’s duster is made out of, the fabric which sailors slicked themselves in against raging gales, and the evolution of a fabric found to excellently sail-worthy for keeping sails dry, yet holding wind better than the dry, yet untreated, fabric of sails alone. And I’ll tell you this: it’s damn hard to come-by! Only one main company makes it in the U.S.A., and maybe 3 internationally. The American company Fairfield Textile has been making it since 1838, but keeps their recipe and method a closely-guarded family secret. Well “heck to that,” I say!
When I got close to running out of my small quantity of waxed canvas (enough to make about 41/2 backpacks) I knew it was time to figure out a way to make it, or a way to get it. Well, if you know me, you know I’m more of a “way to make it” kinda person. To be fair, I researched the ways to “get it,” and found the offerings to be expensive and secretive in the ways of MSDS’ and ingredients and recipe, and didn’t like any of that. I knew from research that waxed canvas was simple enough to be created by the addition of oil (as it was in the early days), and only as complicated as the addition of waxes to improve the mixture. What’s the trick, then? If it’s so simple, then why is it so expensive and rare? I’ll tell you why: application and impregnation.”
X-Ray Love also offers a Lifetime Warranty on all bags, which I think is really wonderful – and a true testament to the honestly and open spirit Chris puts into his products. Oh, and – snakes really like them, too.
The amazing gold cross fabric is designed by Terrie Mangat, and comes in black, vibrant red, aqua, and a beautiful cobalt. They are all so gorgeous, it was really hard to choose, but of course black makes the most sense for me… Terrie lives in lives in El Prado, New Mexico near Taos, and Chris stumbled upon her beautiful fabrics in a local shop there. Here’s his story about finding the source of this special material:
“I had just arrived in Taos, New Mexico, just got my first wholesale account in Salida, Colorado, and had just made a trip to deliver those first 5 wholesale backpacks to the store in Colorado. When I returned to Taos, everything was moving and changing: Me, the friends I was living with, the mountains and the energy. It was all intensifying, literally steeping and steepening with elevation. My friends moved to a beautiful but aging adobe in the Mountains in San Cristobal, and I found a tipi at the base of the mountains in Arroyo Seco. It was in this Tipi that I started producing my line of backpacks as most people know them.
I wanted to find the “it” fabric that would accent my line in just the right way: something cosmic, yet earthy, spiritual, yet abstract and astral. I began to search as I set up shop in my tipi. Exploring different fabric shops in Taos and Santa Fe was really fun, as there are plenty of interesting textiles one doesn’t see in many shops outside of New Mexico. There were many great southwest prints of course, ikats, and woven fabrics. I visited most of them at least twice, and kept returning to the crosses and zig zag prints by Terrie Mangat. They are actually part of the same collection! These two styles of prints had the kind of balance and personality I was looking for, and I chose several different color motifs of these prints to make my first line of bags. I made up 5 backpacks and 5 hip pouches out of some different color motifs of these prints, took them to the Renegade Market at the Gorge Bridge outside of Taos, and had a great response on the first day out!”
Travel essentials. One month on the road. My attempts at streamlining:
The gold glittery Austin National Bank Bag holds half of my toiletries.
The kitty crescent moon pouch holds headphones, five cobalt blue dice (for dix-mille!), spare change, and nail clippers.
The blackcurrant pastille tin holds jewelry and hairpins.
A packet of Carta D’Armenia from Santa Maria Novella is for burning in musty hotel rooms and stanky cars.
I brought my trusty travel Canon S90 along, but have been neglecting it terribly in favor of my phone camera, and the addictive interaction provided by instagram. For shame, eh?
The word toiletries always cracks me up. TOILET TREES!
I also love travel sized unguents – irresistibly itty bitty bottles and tubes!
This is the stuff I use every day when I’m on the road:
Marvis Jasmin Mint toothpaste – best toothpaste ever. It’s made for fairy princesses.
Coconut Sunstick
Weleda Skinfood
Almond Dr. Bronner’s
Coconut Deodorant powder and Aromaco deodorant (in the tea-tin) from LUSH –
this is been the winning combo for me, armpit-wise. Best smelling, and very effective!
L’Artisan L’Eau D’Ambre
The shiny beetle-green travel clutch bag is from ASOS, and I’m extremely fond of it.
So, this is me traveling light – please note: these bags are way huger in reality.
One is a London Fog rollie given to me by Mlle. Verhext on my last trip to San Francisco (the handle broke right after she got it, so they sent her a new one! I fixed her old one with cinnamon dental floss – good as new!) This, and the American Apparel carry-all hold all my clothes. It’s kind of awkward, but mostly works until I can figure out something better. The carry-all slings on top of the rollie, and is precarious, but I can manage. Backpack and purse slung over my shoulders, and I’m on my way, sans baggage cart.
One more travel essential: this hieroglyphic print tote that folds into a little pocket pouch. I use this thing constantly, & am always asked where I got it – at the Met gift shop! I think you can get ’em online there too. Totally ndispensable (if you’re a bag lady like me).
I got my boots shined at the Denver Airport a while back by a very nice gentleman.
I never had my shoes professionally shined, and given how much I wear them, and how travel-worn they get, it’s good to give them some love from time to time. Plus, it was a really pleasant way to kill some time during a layover. I always travel in these cowboy boots – they easily slip on and off, and they’re among the most comfortable shoes I own. I just can’t stomach wearing insane heels to travel in. I know that some like to travel in the utmost style, and I respect them for it, though I also find it kind of baffling. I generally am wrapped in several layers of soft black or grey jersey, because planes are always freezing, and leggings so I can fold myself into a coach-sized pretzel in my seat without being too vulgar. A friend of mine commented that my travel essentials are like “if Cayce Pollard had a bag of glitter…” I kind of wish that were true – though Cayce would shudder at any of this stuff being labled, and no doubt would intolerant of sparkle of any kind.
On that note, my final travel essential: the perfect book. I finally got to dig into Distrust That Particular Flavor by William Gibson, and it’s been the perfect companion on long train rides and dreary flights. What do you always travel with? Got any good travel/packing tips for me? I’m still figuring this out, and would love to get even better at it. Lay your road-wisdom on me, wanderers.
August Gifts
by angeliska on August 20, 2012
I found this little bird on the ground in my yard, at the end of a particularly hard day. I cradled him in my hand and brought him inside. He looks like I’ve been feeling, lately. I’m so thankful for all the distractions and wonders of travel, and for being surrounded by excellent friends on these adventures – but when I draw back to look at my heart and what’s going on inside it, this is what I see. A hollow dried husk of something that once fluttered and flew, a tiny broken thing that once sang sweetly. I can’t imagine not feeling this way right now, though friends assure me that one day I’ll heal from this, that my heart will beat and sing again. It’s hard to believe them. I came across these words today, and they stuck with me:
“There is no greater power than the acceptance of loss.”
If I can find a way to stand this, to bear this feeling in my chest that howls and sobs that everything is falling apart, that I’m losing everything – if I can manage to be in that place of loss and fear and let it crash over me like a tidal wave, then maybe I can believe that. I may be intact, and I may find that power in letting go completely, but this will change me, in ways I cannot yet predict. I will not be the same woman. I will be a different kind of bird entirely.
Before I began this journey, I was blessed by the opportunity to join with a small gathering of some of my favorite ladies for an impromptu full moon Lammas ceremony. We cast and released the threshings & new seeds into the fire, bathed naked in moonlit clear water under tall trees. Were purified by sisters, sage & song, tears and tales. Circles of hands and dancing in spirals. I went to sleep late with my hair smelling of woodsmoke & silver. My animal brain kept thinking something was burning all through the next day. I tried to let so much go in that fire. I’m still trying.
We have two full moons this August – a blue moon on August 31st. I hope to be by the ocean for it.
During the Lammas circle, I threw the things I wished to let of into the fire: I released my sorrow into the air, my tears turning to steam as they ran down my face. I asked the universe to help me with these losses, and to teach me how to bring more beauty and abundance back into my life. I asked for a bit of a break, and I asked for some kindness. The next day the postman brought me a parcel containing the sweetest and most thoughtful gifts ever – from a very kind and magical lady named Karen. To have such sweetness bestowed on me, (and especially from someone I haven’t yet had the pleasure of meeting!) touched my heart more than I can properly express. I opened each colorful and lovingly wrapped little cadeau with trembling fingers and a sense of wonder and joy. It was truly one of the most marvelous parcels I have ever received – the care that went into choosing and preparing each little treasure was incredible. I was blown away by how perfectly each thing suited my taste – as if chosen by a friend who had known me for years! I felt completely humbled by such a random act of kindness. Want to see what was inside? You know you do:
Magic flower teas just entrance me: I can’t wait to have a tea party & watch these beauties bloom! I love their names so much: Moon Glow, Princess Flower, Wishing Star, Morning Dance, Blooming Richness, & Color Blazing!
Such incredible bounty from a kind heart: dragonfruit tea mints, cedarwood & mandarin balm, quince + apple honeyginger jam, stripety socks, liquorice persimmon & cactus pastilles, a hand carved juniper wood salt spoon, copper & silver rubber duckies, octopus eucalyptus + mint + anise soap, peacock tissues for tiny tears, Vulcan bat matches, a Nancy Drew journal, a wonderful fairytale book, an amazing mix cd, a red glass heart and little monkeys!
I really, really, really love unwrapping little gifts. I mean, I’m sure most people do – but I just get totally overwhelmed with excitement like a little kid at Christmas… I think there’s such magic in a thoughtful gift, such surprise.
I love giving presents just as much – and get just as excited by choosing, wrapping and giving the perfect little thing as I do in receiving. I adore birthdays – but most especially I love no particular reason gifts (mostly because I get too excited and have a hard time waiting and saving a present for a holiday. I also tend to lose them in my house…)
Karen, if you’re reading this – thank you again! Your wonderful gifts have brought me so much happiness.
August – from Dame Darcy’s excellent calendar. I’m grateful that this insane summer is nearly done. The New Moon in Leo is teaching me some things, too. Strange to think that my journey began on August 6th, and won’t end until September 6th. I don’t know what exactly I’ll be coming home to, or who I’ll be then, but at least the days will be getting shorter, the nights cooler. Turnings and turnings.
Alcoholism and Surrender
by angeliska on August 18, 2012
My friend and intrepid traveling companion Brett Caraway wrote this piece about alcoholism during our journey up to Canada. It is the product of his path to understanding over the past year, and has also been the subject of many of our long talks over the past few months. Every bit of what Brett wrote here resonated deeply with me. These are the subjects I have been grappling with understanding every single day. If you want to truly understand where my heart and mind are at right now, please take a moment to read further.
My Thoughts on Alcoholism and Surrender
“The drinks don’t taste the same anymore. I used to enjoy long island iced tea. Then it was whiskey. Later on, it was gin and tonic. More recently, it has been rum and coke. But try as I may I just don’t enjoy them like I used to. Although I have never had a problem with drinking myself, I have had my life shattered by alcoholics on two occasions now. Unsurprisingly, my patience for the monotonous, unremarkable, and morose conduct of those who drink excessively is in short supply. Still, part of me struggles to understand the disease of alcoholism which drives some individuals to drink uncontrollably, often hurting the ones they love, subverting their own potential, putting innocents in jeopardy, and destroying their own lives in the process. I drink very seldom these days. Yet I can’t help grappling with alcoholism every time I take a drink. Drinking will never be the same for me.
“If you want to understand a society, take a good look at the drugs it uses. And what can this tell you about American culture? Well, look at the drugs we use. Except for pharmaceutical poison, there are essentially only two drugs that Western civilization tolerates: Caffeine from Monday to Friday to energize you enough to make you a productive member of society, and alcohol from Friday to Monday to keep you too stupid to figure out the prison that you are living in.”
― Bill Hicks
Not too long ago I was having a conversation with my good friend Ron. We were trying to figure out those traits in people which are deal-breakers for us. That is to say ― what characteristics are essentially unpardonable? We settled on just one ― unrestricted cowardice. I am no champion. Like most humans, I am full of fear and insecurity. However, one may be bold despite one’s fears. Bravery and fear coexist. As a part of my own healing process I have strived to confront and understand not only alcoholism but my own shortcomings, neuroses, and fears. With the help of a very astute therapist and a core group of healthy and spiritually perceptive friends I have faced the trauma in my life with conviction. Healing is a social process which requires community in one form or another.
Curiously, alcoholism seems to transform the drinker into a gutless bag of bones incapable of confronting the reality of the disease. The alcoholic insists that the root of their unhappiness lies in circumstances and people having little to do with their own ruinous pattern of drinking. Nonetheless, cowardice is not the exclusive purview of the alcoholic. There is always a network of enablers surrounding the alcoholic who are all too willing to facilitate their destructive behavior.
“There’a a phrase, ‘the elephant in the living room’, which purports to describe what it’s like to live with a drug addict, an alcoholic, an abuser. People outside such relationships will sometimes ask, ‘How could you let such a business go on for so many years? Didn’t you see the elephant in the living room?’ ― And it’s so hard for anyone living in a more normal situation to understand the answer that comes closest to the truth; ‘I’m sorry, but it was there when I moved in. I didn’t know it was an elephant; I thought it was part of the furniture.’ There comes an aha-moment for some folks ― the lucky ones ― when they suddenly recognize the difference.”
― Stephen King
What kind of person would enable an alcoholic? Well, me for one. I have bought and served drinks for the alcoholics in my life on a regular basis. So this commentary does not come from a condescending or judgmental place. This is introspection for me ― not proselytizing.
So again, what kind of person would enable an alcoholic? As far as I can tell there are three types of enablers: other alcoholics, vultures, and the clueless. These are not mutually exclusive categories. Other alcoholics is pretty self-explanatory. Misery loves company and it’s best to surround yourself with those who are either in similar circumstances as you, or worse off than you. In doing so the alcoholic does not feel compelled to cast a critical gaze inward. As the individual drinker is subsumed by alcoholism surrounding themselves with other alcoholics is simply the path of least resistance for the disease. Vultures are those opportunistic and wretched cowards who, lacking all honor and strength of character, are willing to exploit the addiction of others to get what they want. Simply put, they are human trash and require no further elaboration here.
Clueless enablers deserve special consideration because they often seem to surround the alcoholic in greater numbers and are not uniformly malicious in their intent. They are friends and family; they are spouses and life partners; they are bosses and co-workers; they are people who toast to your happiness and throw parties for you; they are people at the margins of your circle of friends and at the center. Sometimes these people lack sufficient information to understand the full extent of the drinking problem for the individual. Alcoholics are incredibly adept at subterfuge. They may never take a single drink in front of select groups of friends, family, and aquaintances.
Still, sometimes the clueless are not really clueless at all and may be in denial. Like the alcoholic, they choose not to face reality because to do so would be terrifying. The idea that your own child or spouse could be an alcoholic is paralyzing. Therefore, many people join the alcoholic in denial. This was me for most of my adult life. Never again.
If someone you love has a drinking problem, first recognize that the drinker’s behavior has an impact on you. Get yourself to an Al-Anon meeting (distinct from AA, Al-Anon provides support for those affected by someone else’s alcoholism ― it’s free and there are meetings everywhere). Know that you are not alone. Know that you are not crazy. Those people who tell you that you are blowing things out of proportion are nothing more than enablers of one sort or another. If you are able, find yourself a counselor or therapist with a solid background in addiction. The important concept here is surrender. You can not and will not change the behavior of the alcoholic. It’s totally beyond your control.
Circumstances will vary, but no matter what, you will have to learn the art of detaching with love. Moreover, it is imperative that you understand you will not achieve genuine healing by going it alone. Just like the alcoholic, you will need help. This is what surrender means in the context of dealing with another person’s alcoholism.
“The idea that somehow, someday he will control and enjoy his drinking is the great obsession of every abnormal drinker. The persistence of this illusion is astonishing. Many pursue it into the gates of insanity or death.”
― Alcoholics Anonymous, The Big Book
Surrender for the alcoholic is likewise crucial. The first step to recovery is to admit the problem and to annihilate all vestiges of denial. I’ll just cut through the bullshit for the sake of brevity:
If you feel like you need alcohol to unwind, relax, or have a good time; if you drink until you are “buzzed” on a nearly daily/nightly basis; if you hide your drinking from certain people; if you have blacked out or had your memory impaired from drinking on numerous occasions; if people in your life have expressed concern about your drinking; if a therapist or other professional has expressed concern about your drinking; or if drinking has caused problems in your relationships with others ― guess what? You have a drinking problem. I’m sorry, but tough shit. Life dealt you a shitty fucking hand. But no amount of denial is going to change that. All of your excuses are just attempts to mask your unwillingness to face up to the problem and your fears. It’s not that you are misunderstood or that other people are overreacting. Sorry, but you are not so nuanced and complex that you are misunderstood by those that love you. In fact, with every drink you take, you become increasingly and depressingly simple. Nor is your drinking simply a preferred way of socializing. For you, it’s not a choice at all. So dispense with the excuses. This is not fucking rocket surgery. Yes it sucks, but stand up dammit. Get yourself to an AA meeting. No matter how much you may wish it, you will never be a normal drinker. You will never solve your problem on your own. Let me repeat that. You will never be a normal drinker. You will never solve your problem on your own. Let that sink in. It’s a bitter pill but it’s better than running from the truth all your life.
“I would not put a thief in my mouth to steal my brains.”
― William Shakespeare, Othello
I write this with a stern yet loving heart because I know way too many alcoholics and people who have been devastated by other people’s drinking. In many respects, alcoholics can be some of the best people you’ll ever meet. Yet their cowardice condemns them to a life of banality at best and tragedy at worst. And to the consternation of those of us who care about them, alcoholics persist in a stubborn state of bootstrapping, insisting that they are in no need of help. In doing so, excellence is transformed into mediocrity, missteps into catastrophe. All that is extraordinary about the individual is betrayed. And the ensuing damage is seldom constrained to the individual drinker. Alcoholism affects everyone.
These thoughts pass through my mind every time I am in the presence of alcohol now.
Try as I may, the drinks just don’t taste the same.
― Brett Caraway
The Smoky Shadows of Dollywood
by angeliska on August 12, 2012
It has been a dream of mine to visit Dollywood for a long, long time now – and today, I can happily say that my wish has been finally been fulfilled! What’s even more amazing is that my experience exploring the wonders of Dollywood was even more lovely and fun than I ever could’ve imagined. I’m not super into mega-insane amusement parks, really. Even Disney I could really mostly take or leave, as the rampant commercialism and consumerism combined with waiting in long cattle-chute lines in the hot sun and overpriced everything tends to gross me out. I’ll always gravitate towards the weird, creepy side-of-the-road carnivals and family circuses any day. But Dollywood for me is more about my deep and abiding love for the magic and marvel that is Dolly Parton than my desire to gobble candy-floss and trudge around in a sea of mooing humans (and their wailing and shrieking offspring). Wandering around Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg (the two towns flanking Dollywood), I began to become a tad concerned that my dreams of the idyllic butterfly haven I imagined Dollywood to be might really be a morass of tacky trinkets and miserable tourists shuffling around a shabby, faded theme-park. To be sure, there are tacky trinkets galore, but what charmed and surprised me most about Dollywood is how downright gorgeous the park itself is. I suppose that oughtn’t have been a revelation, given that it is nestled in the bosom of the Smoky Mountains, which are insanely beautiful, but truly – I think Dolly went the extra mile in making her domain as sweet and pleasant as possible.
I was reminded as soon as we walked in the gates of Tivoli Gardens, my grandfather’s favorite amusement park in Copenhagen. One of the many things that makes Tivoli so special is that it maintains a sweetness, an innocence that can be soothing to children and old folks alike in a world of entertainment that panders to adolescents (eternal and otherwise) who are obsessed with RAGING BLAZING MEGA MONSTER LAZER type amusements. Both Tivoli and Dollywood have quaint, pastel-painted faux-historic architecture (In D-wood’s case it’s faux-Victorian and old-tyme/hillbilly style) lushly landscaped with native trees, babbling brooks, and loads of lovely flowers growing everywhere you look. Tivoli has no neon to speak of (only specially dimmed fairy lightbulbs!), and no piped-in recorded music is allowed – only live bands playing everywhere! Tivoli also has one of the world’s only full-time pantomine theaters, which was the main draw for my Grampa – he loved Commedia dell’Arte. Sadly, we didn’t get to stay and see Dollywood at night, so I can’t say what the night-time lighting’s like, but you could hear Dolly singing pretty much everywhere you go – which is of course, as far as I’m concerned, incredibly excellent.
“In the big rock candy mountains, there’s a land that’s fair and bright,
Where the handouts grow on bushes, and you sleep out every night.
Where the boxcars all are empty, and the sun shines every day,
On the birds and bees and the cigarette trees,
the lemonade springs where the bluebird sings,
in the big rock candy mountains.”
Something my intrepid traveling companion Brettski and I talked about a lot during our time here was how much Dollywood/Pigeon Forge/Gatlinburg reminded us of Pleasure Island from Pinocchio. There’s something really strange about seeing people let loose in districts or areas ordained for pleasure and entertainment. Living in a tourist city like New Orleans, and increasingly now, Austin, this is something I’ve encountered a lot – though it’s always odd to be the tourist rather than the exasperated local. Having waded countless times through the sea of excess that is Bourbon Street, or to a slightly lesser degree, Austin’s 6th Street, I’ve encountered first-hand what happens when you give people license to debauch – provided that they do it in their designated and condoned-off zone, so as not to infect the rest of society with their racket and bawdiness. Seeing the same idea implemented up here, but sans sin, was very interesting. There’s not much alcohol served – very few bars or pubs, and even the naughty sex shops seem tame and oddly, family-friendly. Even the two-foot-tall plastic grenade shaped sippy cups normally reserved for high-octane daiquiris seem to only be filled with frozen lemonade. Kettle corn and old-time candy shops sling the drugs of choice here, and everyone just gets high on Aunt Granny’s homemade fudge and candy-apples instead. Wandering around with a crazy sugar buzz, gaping at Ripley’s wonders and shopping for magnets, t-shirts, country crafts and ridiculous knives seem to satisfy the need for bacchanal in the Appalachians. I guess there’s always moonshine for when the kids have been put to bed. Still, I keep thinking of those wild boys on Pleasure Island who were cursed and turned into donkeys as punishment for their indulgences – hee-hawing and braying in animal grunts of fear, doomed to slavery in circuses and sugar-mines. What happens when your buzz fades, when the hangover sets in and the credit card receipts and glossy unused coupons pile up? I remember riding my bicycle to work through the French Quarter in the mornings and seeing middle-aged secretaries from Ohio passed out drunk in the gutters with their sensible skirts riding up their pantyhosed trotters. What happens when the carnival is over, and we’ve said enough farewells to the flesh? Eventually the glamour peels away, the shine fades off the souvenirs, and the next big attraction is just another tatty shitpile with a for rent sign in the window. You see lots of these up here, right next to the latest, the brightest, the biggest, newest humdinger of a buffet/dinner-show/hotel-motel-resort-lodge/dino-mini golf course. The air-conditioned nightmare is here, and it is us.
Even though we had willingly joined the masses of mountain people on church outings, curious Amish families, and slow-moving rednecks chowing down on fried oreos and funnel cake, we felt like outsiders, observers from another planet – and in truth, we were. So, we felt compelled to don our versions of camouflage, though they probably ended up garnering us more confused looks than had we not . I was hoping to find the perfect trucker hat (or as my dad always called them, “gimme caps”. He wore one habitually through most of my childhood.) I’ve also been wishing, for a long time now, to find an airbrush artist who could make another of my wishes come true – to have a dolphin with a human skull in its mouth emblazoned on my person. I can’t explain the intense satisfaction that having this wish finally granted has brought to me. My only regret is that I didn’t ask for a narwhal. Maybe I’ll remedy that. Also, I think including my full name might make it even more special. Maybe on a tote bag.
Brett is moving to Canada, and thought long and hard about what design and phrase would perfectly illustrate his innate Texanity to his new students and colleagues at the University of Toronto. I think “Guns for Jesus” pretty much says it, don’t you? Unfortunately, this statement did not bat many eyes in these parts.
The very first thing we did upon arriving at Dollywood was ride the beautiful carousel. I got to ride on the goat! SUCCESS! So, basically, everything that happened after this was just gravy on top of my mashed potato sundae – with extra bacon bits.
Carousels can be actually be extremely dangerous. Brett demonstrates proper safety measures.
What a beautiful steed!
The sea-dragon was truly exquisite – I must admit, I was torn.
Don’t mess with the bunny, man. Stern bunny means business.
The Dolly museum is, obviously, a place of intense magic. I barely took any photos in there, because I was just so overwhelmed by how wonderful Dolly Parton is. I’m pretty sure if I ever met her, I would just start crying. Once I just sat and stared at the cover of one of her records for an hour, in awe of how perfect she is. Of course, I feel the same way about Cher. Yes, I am a drag queen. No, I am not ashamed of my passion.
Dolly in a black dress holding two white kitties is pretty goddamn fantastic.
But this photo is EVERYTHING. I mean! Dolly Parton + Grace Jones = LOVE FOREVER.
I felt such a frisson of She-Ra inspired longing when I saw these babies. Silvery pink and rhinestones, man. Her boots really did it for me. So much so, that I couldn’t even deal with trying to document the rest of her insane wardrobe. But I did take more photos of her magic boots! I want them all, real bad. If her feet weren’t so goddamn tiny, I probably would have been arrested today for trying to do a serious shoe heist.
Yes, I had some shoppin’ to do at Dolly’s Closet…
Could I be restrained from consuming piles of Dolly kitsch? The answer is no. Do I love having Dolly’s face plastering on my (comparatively meager) bosoms and sipping tea out of my black glitter Dollywood mug? I don’t think I have to answer that one.
The only bummer of the day was that the Mystery Mine was closed for repairs! I was very much looking forward to a ride that involved the ghosts of dead miners and an 85 foot drop into an abandoned mine shaft, but – I suppose this means that I’ll just have to return to Dollywood one day! Also, this animatronic talking buzzard told us really lousy jokes.
I kind of just want to live at Dollywood. With Dolly. Forever. Can this be arranged?
Pretty little streams like this run through the park, so walking around all day doesn’t feel like you’re in weird fun-land hell, ever. You can just sit in the shade and watch the butterflies flit around when you get tired of navigating through the crowds of strollers and people carrying stuffed bananas, stuffed banana peppers, stuffed traffic cones and life-size inflatable purple aliens.
Also, when in Gatlinburg, I recommend Ripley’s Aquarium and the Haunted Adventure (even though that one didn’t quite live up to my dream spook-house expectations, sadly.) The aquarium is really quite good, and had a nice big tank of weedy and leafy seadragons, which are one of my major totem spirit animals. SO DREAMY.
Greetings, wee glowy jellyfish friend!
In another life, I wouldn’t mind being a jellyfish for awhile.
Or maybe just wearing a sea nettle ballgown. But only if I was immune to the stinging.
Labradorite shark eyes. I wanted to pet her head, but could not. I did pet a giant stingray, though.
He felt very slimy.
We really, really thought hard about going into the World of Illusions…
In the end, we didn’t – but that just leaves another reason to return here one day!
Sometimes the mystery is better than the reality.
In closing, I would highly recommend a trip to Dollywood for both Dolly fans and amusement park enthusiasts. The rollercoasters were fantastically terrifying and exhilarating and gave us crazy shaky jelly legs. It felt good to be forcibly thrown back into my body – I’ve been living in my head so much lately. This adventure made me think a lot about being a child, and having a sense of naïveté about where and how all the cheap tacky junk I craved so intensely was made. Children are greedy, and always want the shiniest, the loudest, the mega-est. I feel like I’ve worked hard to keep my sense of wonder intact, but even at the age of seven, I remember being disgusted and frustrated by how fake and plastic Disneyland was. I feel lucky that I’ve gotten to explore places like Tivoli Gardens and Dollywood as an adult, and still get to enjoy the magic they provide. They aren’t perfect, by any means – but they do try harder to leave that sense of innocence and beauty intact. There’s an appreciation of nature, though I’m aware of the gargantuan waste and profligate destruction that these places cause. It’s a tough one. I think of the abandoned Six Flags in New Orleans – an empty behemoth left to rust and decay and become a playground only for nutrias and rag-tag tribes of lost boys and girls. What will become of all these places when our ecosystem and our economy can no longer sustain them? I can never see places like this without imagining their eventual ruins. It’s how my brain works. On a different note, I’ve also been thinking about some interesting articles I read a while back by a scholar who analyzes and studies Disneyland and amusement parks – they way the lines are designed, the rides themselves – very interesting. I think it was a she, and she wrote a really great piece about the Haunted Mansion that I really enjoyed. I reckon I can dig around Long Forgotten (an amazing UK blog dedicated to scholarly discussion regarding the Haunted Mansion!), but if anyone knows who I’m talking about, holler.
Also, I think this rundown from Buzzfeed is also more or less accurate:
The DOs And DONT’s Of Dollywood
Have you ever been to Dollywood? Did you love it as much as I did? SAY YES. No, really – I’d love to hear your stories (especially if you ever got to go back when it was first opened!) If not, what are your favorite bizarre tourist traps or roadside attractions? Do tell…!
No Room in My Heart For the Blues
by angeliska on August 8, 2012
Twenty-six years ago today, my mother died. She died of cancer, in her parent’s home in Lone Grove, Texas.
A year ago today, I was writing about her, and her deep love of Hank Williams, in the kitchen of the house where my fiancé and I had planned to have our wedding reception. He and I and my future mother and father-in-law had toasted with glasses of champagne in front of the huge old fireplace in a grand room hung with dozens of mounted deer heads and horns. I thought that in that moment, I had my life laid out before me, unfurling in one gilded shining path – so certain, so gleaming: I had found the man I wanted to spend the rest of my life with, the man I wanted to have a family with, grow old with, be buried next to. I had found family within his family, as had he with mine. I was so sure that all of this was destined, somehow – was written in the book of life, our names side by side. What a terrible shock to find myself today, so far from home, far from him – our future together torn apart, our roads diverged. Everything has changed now. The champagne glasses shattered, the venues cancelled, the wedding called off. That dream has died. I am still alive. My orbit’s changed, and I’m reeling, spinning through air, untethered. Free, and yet so very lost.
Today, instead, I am traveling. Driving for the first time out on country highways, between wide swathes of tall pines creaking with the weight of their heavy cloaks of vine. Long, lonesome roads that are so familiar to me. I gazed out at these same landscapes as a child. My hands clench the wheel at ten and two, white knuckled as I sidle around the big trucks, honking at crows picking apart something dead in the road. I sing loud along to the saddest country songs, songs of lost love, of broken hearts, of old loves. I feel those songs in my bones. Hank’s voice, ponderous and slow, a lead weight in a dark river, splitting me in half with all that heavy truth. Loved and lost. Alone and forsaken. His lyrics draw us out like a silver cord, leading us through the trees to the place where he rests, waiting. I made this trip before, a long time ago. I was too small then, to know what it would mean to me later. Our first, last and only family vacation. I am a woman grown now, and I look in the mirror today and wonder what my mother would think if she saw me now. I think she’d approve. I know I’ve worked hard to get to where I am – a place where I can be present with my emotions, my heart open, brave and awake and always reaching… To me, that’s
real strength, real progress. Even through the heartbreak, the long train of losses that has sliced such essential chunks out of my life, I’ve found a way to make something bloom in the empty spaces. I sowed seeds in those gaps, and I’ve dug deep and gleaned whatever I could from the ashes. Even so, on days like this, my mouth is still filled with those bitter cinders: the double 8 death date looms heavy on me. Double eights are said to be lucky, to bring double happiness, joy in marriage. If only.
I think about Hank’s broken heart, about why he and Audrey split up. Did their love really endure despite all that? I hate to say it, but I’ve come to understand that love isn’t really enough. I wish I could still cling to Amor Vincit Omnia, but in truth, “Love Conquers All” is a vast oversimplification of what it really takes to make a relationship work. I think about this piece my friend Elaine wrote recently: The Silent Pain of Boys and Men – and how hard it is for most men in our society to find ways to express their sadness, their fear, their anger. Men with broken hearts, indeed. Even though Hank had the gift of song, the ability to write his pain out in lyrics – it didn’t prevent him from dying of a whiskey and morphine induced heart attack alone in the back of a Cadillac on a dark backroad. He and Audrey can rest side by side, together into eternity – but the truth is, he was married to another woman when he died. Audrey paid her off with $30,000 dollars to claim the right to this plot, the right to be known as “Hank’s Widow”. That isn’t to say that I don’t believe that they loved each other more than they had ever loved anyone – but it wasn’t enough to make her stay, or make him get sober, or make them find away to work it out. I’m sorry, but being reunited in death just doesn’t feel like a happy ending to me. It feels like a fucking tragedy, because it is.
Someday beyond the blue…
I gathered up the graveyard posies, just like I did when I was 6. Wandering between the graves, reading the names and dates and whistling along with the mockingbirds, the mourning doves cooing in the glossy magnolias. The air was gentle around me, a haze hung in the air, cradling me in a humid hug – a slow breeze rustling my sunset dress as I sang songs to my mama, to Hank and Audrey and all the rest of the dear departed. Cicadas thrummed the air in a copper-winged chorus. I remembered being here, sitting on this bench with my dad. Being so happy and so sad, just like I am today. The eternal return, looping back in on itself, trying to fit the pieces back together, trying to find what was lost. Every year I write another link in the chain, compose a response to another riddle, but this year, my path leads to who knows where, and who knows who will walk beside me, hold my hand. I know we all die alone, but dammit – I want to sit on that old porch in rocking chairs at the tail end of my golden years and still be telling stories with someone I love.
I want to say there’s no room in my heart for the blues, but in truth – there’s plenty of room left there, in the huge hole where my partner used to live. When I eventually make my way home, he will have removed all his belongings and moved out of the house we bought together. I can’t imagine what coming home to that will be like. I don’t want to. I’m a wolf that mates for life, and right now, I can’t imagine falling in love again, finding another wolf as true as the one that’s left me howling high on this hill. It’s like the horror at having one of your adult teeth knocked out – knowing another won’t grow back in its place, your tongue going back and back to the place where it used to be. That sick feeling in the pit of your stomach, realizing that what you’ve lost can never be replaced except by artificial means.
I wish I could believe these lyrics could apply to my sweetheart and I,
but it’s just not where I’m at, nor can I imagine getting to this place of
peace with it all anytime soon. Also, I don’t believe for a goddamn instant
that Hank ever truly felt this blithe and nonchalant about losing Audrey:
“There’s no room in my heart for the blues
Love is satisfied to either win or lose
Darling if our pathway parts let there be no broken hearts
There’s no room in my heart for the blues
There’s no room in my life for a sigh
We’ll be strong enough to face our last goodbye
Darling if our romance ends let us part as best of friends
There’s no room in my heart for the blues
There’s no room in my memory for tears
We’ll let bygones be forgotten souvenirs
If your hungry heart forgets, let there be no sad regrets
There’s no room in my heart for the blues
There’s no room in my life for a sigh
We’ll be strong enough to face our last goodbye
Darling if our romance ends let us be as best of friends
There’s no room in my heart for the blues”
What is there to do now, but keep walking? I try and keep my head up, keep my eyes trained on the horizon. I write it all out here. I sing my heart out, and pound the steering wheel with my fist. I cry in the middle of the night, alone in a bed too big for just one. I cry into my dog’s fur. I cry on our front porch. I know I’ll cry on rollercoasters, and on airplanes and in bathroom stalls. I try not to cry when I open wedding invitations addressed to both of us, but I do anyway. I’m crying now, as I write this.
Here is where we sat, my dad and I. I had a good long talk with him, the other night – about this trip, about my mom, about spirituality. I’m so lucky to have him – so lucky to be born to the parents I was born to, despite having to lose one. I know that if my mother had lived, I wouldn’t be the person I am today. I’d be someone else. I bought myself a copy of Cheryl Strayed’s Tiny Beautiful Things – (the compiled letters from her Dear Sugar column) recently, and cried over nearly every single chapter. When I first started reading Dear Sugar, I didn’t know that her mother had died – somehow I missed those letters, but reading about her experience makes me feel such a kinship to her. I have found that the motherless tend to gravitate to one another. What she wrote here resonated with me so much:
“The kindest and most meaningful thing anyone ever says to me is: your mother would be proud of you. Finding a way in my grief to become the woman who my mother raised me to be is the most important way I have honored my mother. It has been the greatest salve to my sorrow. The strange and painful truth is that I’m a better person because I lost my mom young. When you say you experience my writing as sacred what you are touching is the divine place within me that is my mother. Sugar is the temple I built in my obliterated place. I’d give it all back in a snap, but the fact is, my grief taught me things. It showed me shades and hues I couldn’t have otherwise seen. It required me to suffer. It compelled me to reach.”
This is the truth.
I’m getting real tired of hearing that “Time heals all wounds”. That’s another goddamn lie. I wish it were true, I really do – but the real truth is, I waited years and years thinking the pain of losing my mother would go away on its own. I lied to my therapists, telling them I was fine – I must’ve either been a good little liar, or else they were just content to let me go on being fucked up and collect their payment, because no child who loses a parent is “fine”. Losing a parent, or a spouse, or a child, or a sibling, or really anyone that you love immensely is not a wound that heals in time. It’s like having your hand chopped off.
Sure, eventually, after the stump has been cauterized and some scar tissue grows over, you may learn how to dress yourself and comb your hair again. You may even get fitted for a prosthetic. But you’ll never have that hand again. You have to learn how to survive without it, and you can – but in the middle of the night, even years later, it will ache. It will ache and ache and ache, and nothing will ever bring it back. That’s what death is. That’s what losing someone you love is like. People who try and say anything different either haven’t ever lost a hand, or they’re trying to make themselves feel better. I’m not saying you can’t find joy and peace and acceptance in time – but just that some things are not replaceable. People are not replaceable – at least not for me.
Another thing – if you break your nose, or your leg, and don’t treat it immediately, sure – it’ll heal up, but you’ll be left with a crooked nose, or a bad limp that will have to be re-broken and set properly one day. A wound left to fester will burst later. You can’t just leave these things to time – you have to air them out, wash ’em good and stitch them proper – or else you’ll be dealing with that shit for years to come. I should know – I hobbled around on busted legs for so, so long. Resetting them has been a bitch – but I can walk now. And we have to keep walking this road, keep walking even when all we want to do is just lay down in the dirt and pray for it to end soon. So it helps to have strong legs.
We have lots of reasons for not dealing with grief in the moment – work, or school, or being “too busy”, shame, fear, consuming anger, or just good old compartmentalization – but it’s never too late to do the work, to find ways to say goodbye, to honor your dead, your lost ones. From that work comes not only healing, but other things. Bright things. Magical and true and shining things that come in the dark and cradle your broken legs and the stump where your hand used to be and sing you songs. I promise.
This is how I’ve been doing my work over the past few years:
FAMILY VACATION – HANK WILLIAMS’ GRAVE
STAR-CROSSED TROUBADOURS
Foxes in the Rain
Triumvirate Lemniscate
Gustav + Mama – August 8th
Family Vacation – Hank Williams' Grave
by angeliska on August 8, 2012
When I was six years old, my mother and father and I drove from Taylor, Texas to Montgomery, Alabama to make a pilgrimage to Hank Williams’ grave. This was to be our first, last and only family vacation. At the time, I didn’t know that this was an unusual choice. I’m not sure what exactly I thought, but having few friends throughout most of my childhood, I didn’t have much context for what normal families did on vacation. I think I must’ve imagined that we were normal, even though I can see now that we were absolutely not. Not even close. There were so many aspects of my life at that time that I just assumed were experiences other children must share, so I didn’t question very much. My mother had been battling cancer for close to two years at that point, and I was sort of living in a protective shell of fantasy populated by unicorns and warrior princesses with pegasus friends. My life took place in the back seat of the car, staring out the window, being shuttled between hospitals and specialists and kindly neighbor’s houses. I have vivid memories of always driving back and forth to see my mom in Houston, at the M.D. Anderson Cancer Center there. Late nights on long dark highways, punctuated only by the lonely glow of neon signs from roadside diners. I’d get woken up and carried into a booth at one of these, my favorite, where I’d order hot cocoa with marshmallows and chicken fried steak. They sold chupa-chup lollipops by the door, and I’d always get banana chocolate. I wish I could remember where that place was, what it was called…
I don’t know if I understood that my mother was dying, or even what death really was. I knew she was sick, and I knew she wasn’t really available for most of the kind of mothering I so desperately wanted from her. I retreated into my world of books: on dinosaurs and Egypt, but I tried so hard to meet her on common ground – wanting to share her interests, her passions for art and music. She loved Hank Williams, and I did too, dancing around in the living room wildly to “Jambalaya” and “Settin’ the Woods on Fire”. I don’t think I understood that he was dead, that he had died nearly 30 years before I was born. I knew that he was sad, that he and his wife Audrey had fought and split up, but that he still loved her. I knew that he had died on a dark, icy road in the back of the Cadillac of drug and alcohol induced heart attack, on New Year’s Eve, 1953. It was my mother’s fifth birthday. I knew that my mother loved him, was crazy about him (she even had a thing that went around her license plates that read, “Maggie’s Just Crazy About Hank Williams!”, but who was I to say that not everyone’s mom felt the same way about him? I knew women were crazy about Elvis, or the Beatles.
I didn’t know what an obsession was. I didn’t know that my father and I were indulging the obsessions of a dying woman. I just thought we were on vacation. I think I thought of graveyards as parks where dead people slept. I suppose that’s exactly what they are, in a way. It’s no surprise, given my childhood, that I ended up being curious and fascinated by death and its rituals. It was such a big part of my life, growing up in graveyards, running and playing between the tombs. I still find cemeteries peaceful, (though I no longer stage elaborate gothic photoshoots in them) and I am glad that I was raised to have an appreciation and reverence for the cities of the dead. Still, it’s strange to see these photos of us there, 27 years later. I am so tiny, and so awkward. I feel like even in these grainy photographs, you can see the pain writ large on my little face.
My parents and I.
I clutch my mother’s hand with both of mine, and pose in front of Hank’s grave. She is so, so thin. Her hair cut short for chemo, her face drawn. You can tell she is so tired. We stand with Bruce Gidoll, her dear friend and Hank’s official historian. He lived out in Utah and raised wolves. My legs are so brown and my feet are so big in my favorite periwinkle pearl jellies. They made my toes smell like fritos. Makes me think of how you can tell how big a puppy will grow by looking at its outsize paws. I was like a gangly wolf-pup, huddling close to my dwindling pack.
“I saw the light, I saw the light,
no more darkness, no more night
now I’m so happy, no sorrow in sight
praise the lord, I saw the light…”
We came back again the next day, to celebrate his birthday. My parents played his songs, and people gathered around.
Someone cracked a beer and set it on his grave for him. I went out wandering amongst the gravestones, gathering up faded
and torn fake flowers that had blown off the graves. By the time I came back, I had filled a big garbage bag with them, and
my folks were horrified, thinking that I had pilfered them from the dead. When I explained that I only picked up the windblown
ones that didn’t belong to anyone anymore they relented and let me keep them. For years after, I wore those cemetery blooms
in my hair and dressed my dolls in them. I didn’t know how morbid it was – I was just happy to have so many flowers.
I remember they sang, “When God Comes and Gather His Jewels”,
“I Saw the Light”, and “I’ll Never Get Out of This World Alive”, among others.
“When God comes and gathers his jewels
All his treasures of diamonds and pearls
You’ll see her up there, up in heaven so fair
When God comes and gathers his jewels…”
One of my mama’s paintings of Hank.
A ghost. This photo was sent to my mom by Irene, Hank’s sister, who we got to meet on that trip.
They continued a correspondence until my mother died. On the back of this photo, Irene wrote,
“Hank dropped by to say hello. Scared me to death!” I noticed today that August 8th was Irene’s
birthday, as well as my mother’s death day. She died in 1995. Happy birthday, Irene. Goodnight, mama. Goodnight, Hank.
“Just a picture from life’s other side: someone has fell by the way
A life has gone out with the tide, that might have been happy some day
There’s a poor old mother at home; she’s watching and waiting alone
Just longing to hear from a loved one so dear; just a picture from life’s other side”